Jodie's Bali Blog

2007-05-20T18:54:00.000-07:00

To read this blog from the beginning of my trip, please scroll to the bottom, and read the entries from the bottom up. Thanks.

2006-04-22T20:43:00.000-07:00

Can you see the man in the white shirt tending his small patch of land?

This is grass shack where rice farmers can take a rest from the sun.

This is a platform where farmers can rest.

The many terraced rice fields, in all stages of growth and harvest.

2006-04-22T20:39:00.000-07:00

Life moves slowly in Bali

2006-04-22T20:36:00.000-07:00

This is a young child riding on the foot rest of a motor scooter. It is not uncommon to see three and four people on one bike.

2006-04-22T20:32:00.000-07:00

Anik's mother works as a woodcarver. She is not the actual artist, but she has learned a particular step in the many that it takes to make an intricate woodcarving. She works at her home and brings the completed pieces in when she is finished. She is given more of the same, or taught a new step in the process of a new wood piece of artwork.

2006-04-22T20:24:00.000-07:00

You can tell if a person has recently been to the temple to pray and bring offerings because they press some cooked rice (from their offering) to their forehead and often it still remains for a little while.

2006-04-22T20:17:00.000-07:00

I think the people of Bali are so beautiful.

2006-04-22T20:11:00.000-07:00

Little niches like this are common. Mosses and ferns grow easily in the tropical weather of Bali.

2006-04-22T20:08:00.000-07:00

A woman weaving an intricate print using many different colored dyed threads.

2006-04-08T22:22:00.000-07:00

I said good bye to the woman I met my second day here. Her name is Judy, and she comes here twice a year from Australia, where she lives with her retired husband. She works in a book store that she has sold to her son. We had some wonderful talks and she much reminds me of my Auntie Marj... Thin framed, quick smile, short white hair, open and sincere, honest and frank with her opinions. I took a photo of her and the house boy, Wayan... but my camera's battery is out, and I suppose that signals the end of my trip. I will go for a last massage at the health spa at the end of Jalan Kejang, then Anik and Nyoman pick me up in the late afternoon to bring me to Sanur. There I will pick up my much needed sandals and catch my plane home on Monday.

2006-04-08T22:05:00.000-07:00

The gardens are so meditative here. I wander through them, sit on a bench, climb marble stairs to catch a breeze, or watch the fish in the pond. The grandfather of the current owner died years ago at age 106. He was the original owner of the land and a famous artist and teacher. His work is hung simply on the white walls of small galleries throughout the compound. I sat this morning on a bench in the gallery, looking at some penciled drawings of young men getting ready for a fire dance ceremony. The room had high ceilings and I felt so quiet inside myself, while the tinkling of a small gamelan and the birds outside filled my ears. The incense from the morning offerings drifted in through the open shutters. This is my last day here.

2006-04-08T22:01:00.000-07:00

This morning the canel that leads to the river, looked muddy but calm. Last night, the water was pouring over the road like a waterfall, completely flooding the banks. The water soaks into the land as quickly as it falls from the sky.

2006-04-08T21:36:00.000-07:00

The umbrella rested lazily against the porch, my sidewalk dry, air still... no signs of the havoc of last night's storm.

The sky opened up, the rain poured out. Sheets of water flowed down the street toward the river. I was leaning my head against Anik's back, as she wobbled her way on the scooter towards my bungalow. The top half of me was dry under the dripping poncho, while my feet and legs met the splashing water of the rode.

Anik dropped me off in front of a cafe across the road from where I was staying. The rain was flooding out of the sky. The street was like a wide stream, it buckled and curled over the uneven pavement. Little boats of gratitude- woven offerings with orange and pink flowers, floated past , along with plastic bottles, plastic bags, cans, bottles, cigarette butts, and newspapers. The water rose quickly above the sidewalk, capturing the trees caught in the swiftly moving mass.

I ordered a wonderful orange lentil soup and avocado salad. I ate, and I waited. The lightening flashed and the street was a silverish blue ocean for me to try to cross. I opened my umbrella while the cafe staff watched. I rolled up my pant legs and waded onto the sidewalk, the rushing water still shallow, just covering my ankles. The rain continued to plop hard and heavy on the umbrella and water fell off it in sheets, making a curtain around me.

I stepped off the curb into the current. Almost immediately my rubber sandal was swept down stream. As lightening flashed, I saw the blue shoe in silver blue water swirl once and disappear over a ledge down to the river below. I half laughed, half screamed as the thunder roared over head and the rain pounded... A plastic bag wrapped itself around my ankle, and as I stood balanced on my one sandaled foot, my umbrella waving overhead, I tried to shake the bag free... Like a soaking wet tight rope walker, I limped and slid across the flooded street, and up the hill where my dry bungalow awaited me.

2006-04-08T00:35:00.000-07:00

You might think that all I do in Ubud is get massages... not so. Sometimes I take long baths in salted herbal water with flowers floating on the top! This I did yesterday, before spending time sitting on the floor of Anik's shop drinking Bali coffee that she ran to the next shop down to make for me. She came running back, feet wet from the pavement, with two little bags of peanuts. I had to refuse since I am worried that peanuts may have contributed to my allergic reaction the last time I stayed in Ubud... either that, or the mold. She made me a little white top while I was in Amed, so I bought that from her as well as some silk scarves. They are beautiful! I also picked up two shirts that I had made by her friend. Such wonderful workmanship... I wish I had ordered more from her. As it turns out, the seamstress I did place an order with, has closed her shop until the 12th because of a Toothfiling Ceremony in her family. Unfortunately, I leave earlier than I had told her... so I am wondering what will happen. We will see.

2006-04-08T00:16:00.000-07:00

The place where I am staying is actually the home of an artist and an artistic family. There is incredible artwork... paintings, sculptures, drawings... to look at in a museum, just inside the gates of the family compound, off the busy street. I have met a nice older woman staying in the bungalow next to mine. We shared our breakfast and a two hour conversation this morning about our various travels. She was from Australia. She told me about a good place to eat on a little side street, and I told her about two good places to get massage. Today I will, of course, spend time with Anik and I also plan to experience a form of massage called Lelata Dhara. I can't say much now, other than it is an Ayurvedic therapeutic massage and begins with warm herbal oil rhythmically dripped onto the forehead for mental relaxation and clarity. God knows, I can always use a little clarity!

2006-04-06T06:23:00.000-07:00

This is the cleanest and driest room I have had so far. The bungalow is very tight, and it doesn't smell wet or muggy. It feels cozy inside, though this picture makes it look rather cold and white. The bathroom is awesome... the photo is taken from inside of it. There are windows and a sliding door separating it from the room. It has an outdoor feel with a sort of skylight and walls of stone, yet it is sparkling clean with a wall-less shower, a tub (yipee!), and beautiful carved and painted shelves and hooks. It will be a nice place to come back to after a rainy walk. When I arrived it was pouring down rain, and three of the staff (all about Sam and Zoey's age) came with umbrellas to help me. I received a "welcome" fruit drink of my choice, flowers in my room, and shortly after, tea for the evening. Breakfast will be served in my room at 8:00 at my request! This is one of the places that Bruce and I have stayed before... a whopping $45 three summers ago for two people... today, $15.

2006-04-06T06:19:00.000-07:00

Here is my new bungalow in Ubud. It is near a rushing river that makes a lot of wonderful sound. The gardens are lush, and all the paths are artistic mosaics of red, white and black stones. It is right in the middle of Ubud, an easy walk to anywhere.

2006-04-06T06:06:00.000-07:00

As our journey continued... Iluh asked if I'd like to meet her sister. Of course I said yes, and soon we pulled over to a little warung that had a roof in front held up by two sticks. A little boy ran around on the sidewalk with a sucker sticking out of his mouth chasing a dog with a stick. A shy woman broke out in a huge tight lipped smile when we pulled up! The boy stopped and stared. We were offered cold Sprite in scratched green bottles from an old red Coca Cola cooler, each with a straw! She also set out little plastic baggies with pink and green cakes in them. When we were leaving, she gave me a huge bottle of water which I really appreciated for my next stay. We also stopped at a huge local market where I got to show off for Iluh my bargaining skills as I purchased sarongs for Zoey. "Just like I taught you!" she said. She gave me a couple more pointers, but I could tell she thought I did well. Oh... did I say I ordered shoes in Sanur? I picked out great leather and made a fantastic deal. I did this while Iluh and the driver rested in the shade. About an hour later, she came looking for me. When Iluh heard the price, she was really proud! She's a good teacher!

2006-04-06T05:41:00.000-07:00

On our way to Sanur and then on to Ubud, I told Iluh and the driver that I'd like to buy them lunch. I had already eaten an egg sandwich I had saved from breakfast, so I encouraged them to stop at a place they'd really enjoy. Soon they both began chattering in Balinese, and the driver pulled over and did a u-turn in the road. He headed back to a small establishment on the side of a rice field. This little spot advertised: "Babi Guling".... Barbeque Pig! Mmmm! Look closely at the pig in the window. Its head is pointing to the right.

2006-04-06T04:55:00.000-07:00

We ride past incredible scenery... down winding roads through thickly forested canyons, up steep edges of meticulously groomed rice fields, through bustling little villages with chickens and dogs and children and people sitting playing cards in the road... Iluh maneuvers the scooter at a steady 40 mph. Soon the clouds become thick and lower and a breeze comes up. People hurry along the road carrying their burdens... prized roosters in baskets balanced on a long bamboo pole, bundles of bright green leafy branches, buckets of water, armloads of banana leaves, crates of coconuts, burlap sheets with drying spices... everyone hurries to get in out of the impending downpour. Iluh and I just laugh... we don't care if we
get wet, just another rainy day in
Bali.

2006-04-06T04:50:00.000-07:00

Balinese carwash...
All along the road coming out of Amed, you can see cars stopped, and people washing their cars in the irrigation ditch, of all purpose water...

2006-04-06T04:28:00.000-07:00

Iluh and I hopped on the motor scooter and headed up and over the mountain to the large town of Amlapura. It was a long, and fun ride. I had hoped to find an internet that would be capable of uploading photos. We didn't find one, but we rode through wonderful little villages where people carried out their daily lives dispite the noise and traffic along the road.

For most of the way, a four foot wide irrigation type ditch lines the
road. Here is the only water supply for most of these villages. People can be seen bathing, washing clothes, washing dishes, and even urinating into it.

2006-04-06T04:21:00.000-07:00

A pink cord snakes across the ground and winds its way up the tree and around the branch. From it hangs two sockets. Iluh reaches up to to plug in a light for Nengah just as I snap this photo. The flash goes off, Iluh screams because she thinks she has been shocked, she steps back onto Gede who is playing with his cars behind her, she falls, Nengah hears the commotion and thinks something is wrong with the electricity, and runs out to find us all laughing hysterically!

2006-04-06T04:15:00.000-07:00

My open air shower welcomes me several times a day. The toilet and sink area are covered, as is the long bamboo towel rack. All are open to the wide sky and huge banana leaves, and the water is about 70 degrees.

2006-04-06T04:08:00.000-07:00

I am helping with the landscaping around the back and side of the cafe. We use sticks to dig in the sandy soil. Iluh gives me cuttings that will take root and shows me where to plant. Soon the children see the pattern we are creating and help.

2006-04-06T04:00:00.000-07:00

This is the little cafe that Nengah and Iluh have built right on the beach by their cinderblock house. The grass huts that Nengah's family and neighbors live in are to the right. The beach, which last year was still just a native Balinese village, now also has a small bungalow style hotel to the right of their cafe. It was sad to see.

2006-04-06T03:45:00.000-07:00

This is Made and Ketut... two of the three women who massage me each day in Amed. Ketut rarely smiles very big because she is self conscious of her protruding upper tooth that hangs down a bit. Any dentist could fix it easily, but in the village where she lives, she will never see a dentist, and will continue living her life never feeling good about a big smile. Missing from this picture is the beautiful woman I called Young Ketut, who died suddenly a few months ago. They cannot afford a cremation.

2006-04-06T03:39:00.000-07:00

The young people who work at Prema Liong are timid, yet friendly. They brought me food, and snacks, and drinks, and cleaned my room! They were as close as a ring of the bell!

2006-04-06T03:30:00.000-07:00

I loved my little bungalow. I loved sitting on the porch reading, taking a nap on the side bed, getting my morning or evening massage in the open air on the lounge. I loved the ritual of washing clothes, and hanging them to dry... watching them move gently in the breeze, feeling them to see if they were dry yet. I loved lighting the little green insect coil with its soft spicy scent and a candle illuminate my dinner.

2006-04-06T03:22:00.000-07:00

When I first arrived, Iluh's family came to greet me on my porch. I gave them each a gift that I had packed. I gave Gede a collection of "match box cars" to share with his little cousins. They were a big hit... especially with his dad! Nengah especially liked the SUV's! Later, Gede and his little cousins made elaborate "roads" on a pile of dirt for the cars. The played for the longest time, just making car sounds, never fighting, as they stepped over and around each other to move the cars on their roads.

2006-04-06T03:17:00.000-07:00

This is my friend Iluh with her 8 year old son Gede, and her newly "adopted" 10 year old child, Eka. Eka's parents could not afford to send her to school, so Iluh lets Eka stay at her house on the beach during the week and she pays for her schooling and food. Both children are gentle and smart, and as adorable and loving as they look here!

2006-04-06T03:12:00.000-07:00

When I arrived in Amed at Prema Liong, my two story bungalow was adorn with flowers. A vase carved from an unripe papaya held flowers on a little table and the sheets were pulled tight in tidy preparation for me.

2006-04-06T02:52:00.000-07:00

I said good bye to Amed today and headed south to Sanur to have shoes made, then to Ibud. I hired a driver for all day and Iluh came with me and shared the minimal cost. We had more talking to do! I have decided to interupt my trip a week early and return home. I will recap my Amed experience with photos...

2006-04-04T03:52:00.000-07:00

We use the word exotic to describe a place of beauty, of mystery maybe... a place that is different from that which we are comfortable, a place with hidden secrets and maybe even spiritualness. Bali has been that exotic place for me in the past... but for now, that mysterious beauty is a bit elusive.

I am, by choice and because of my friendship with Iluh and her family, spending much time in the village of Jemeluk, right on the beach. The houses are no more than single rooms made of bamboo poles and woven grasses. Smoke from the fires fills the air, and garbage is strewn along the paths that lead from house to house. A pig stands tied to a post all day. The piglets come to nurse, practically swimming in muck just to suckle.The fishing boats sit idle, while the men mend their nets and women try to sew black plastic buckets back together with fishing line.

I lay on a mattress on Iluh and Nengah's porch. Their two room house is made of cinder blocks with wooden silled glass windows which Iluh has painted with turquoise and black paint. They have, by far, the most modern home in the neighborhood. There is much jealousy. As we lay on the pillows and talk, Iluh showing me how to sms on her mobile phone, she notices something black in a nearby tree. "What's that?" she asks in a frightened voice.

I look... I see nothing. She points and sits up. "There, it is black." I look again and see nothing out of the ordinary. "It is just the tree, Iluh," I say. But she jumps up and I follow her to the tree. She sees for herself that it is just a dead part of the tree that she has not noticed before. "I thought it was black magic," she said in a hushed voice. "Many people are jealous. But the gods are good to me. I think they show me first before it can harm us."
We go back to the mattress and try to sms my friend Anik back in Ubud, as we eat mackeral and rice... vegetables and spices are not in their budget she tells me.

A few minutes later, a woman comes by and they speak for a while in balinese. Iluh unlocks her wooden door and goes inside. She comes out with some money. The woman's husband is sick and he must go to the hospital. She borrows money that maybe she can pay back in 6 months... but Iluh says she has no job. She lends the money anyway.

A little while later, I ride with her on the dark road back to Prema Liong. On a steep hill, the engine turns off... "So sorry, Jodie. We have no gas." We push the bike to the side, and enjoy the quiet and the sound of the sea below us. We are near her village temple on the cliff and the spiritualnes feels strong to me. We wait.

Soon a man comes by and stops. He is from another village,but knows Iluh, and goes to get gas. He returns and does not let her pay. Karma we both say.

2006-04-01T22:14:00.000-08:00

I can not send photos from this internet cafe, so I will wait until I am back in Ubud to do so. I sit now in a small stall with little circulation and an engery efficient light bulb hanging from its socket, a piece of white paper folded like a cone around it... I wasn't surprised when they said I could not plug in my card reader.

Today I had a massage from Wayan, an older woman who still remembers meeting me when she and a friend gave Bruce a double massage on the beach. That lets you know how few Americans come to this side of Bali. She also shared with me the sad news that my favorite girl who came to massage had died suddenly in her sleep seven months ago! I was so shocked because this young woman named Ketut, had three children, a handicapped husband, and the most beautiful healthy smile and body that you could imagine.

I heard several accounts of how Ketut died, as I asked about her more from others. Each story was told in a whisper and as though in the strictest confidence... from anemia to black magic... one person even told me that her spirit had talked to the local healer and told him she was sad and confirmed that black magic- a spell cast by someone who was jealous of her- was the cause.

Later in the day when I was alone and watching the waves come in, I thought about Ketut and all the stories, and I felt so far from home.

2006-04-01T22:04:00.000-08:00

I arrived safely in Amed. My bungalow was waiting with its double doors adorn with red hibiscus, the pillows on the bed with white plumeria, and the little table on the porch soon had a pot of tea for me... brought by a young woman named Made... the tray balanced on her head. Iluh came up the long rock stairway through the garden to my porch. Removing her thongs, she practically leaped up the steps of the porch into my arms. We talked like sisters until it grew dark, and I learned more than I ever could imagine that I would understand about her life, now and in the past. I put my things away in the little wooden cabinet, took a cool shower, and went to bed. I slept until the roosters crowed, and woke to see the little fishing boats coming in with their morning catch.

2006-03-31T16:39:00.000-08:00

I leave rainy Ubud and head to Amed today.

2006-03-31T16:29:00.000-08:00

Gasoline prices had doubled in the last several months according to Nyoman (Anik's husband). I notice prices of most things have gone up as well.

Yesterday I spent an hour talking with a Muslim woman and her husband in their shop, across from the Internet Highway where I now have an account (lol). I told them about my trip to Turkey, and about our small muslim community in Chico. I ended up buying two fantastic batik hangings for more than half the fixed ticket prices that were attached with little pins and carefully written on a mustard colored piece of tagboard. The woman, Irna, also gave me a batik napkin.

2006-03-31T16:15:00.000-08:00

I waited in a little covered shelter for the rain to stop. An old Balinese man sat just outside his shop smoking and smiling and nodding at me. I returned his smiles. Then he began making hand motions to me which I did not understand. He suddenly got up and went into his shop, coming out with a rolled rattan mat and spread it out and sat on it. He then patted the mat and jestured behind himself.

I turned around, and there tucked between the bench on which I sat, and the rock wall of the shelter, was a rolled up mat! I did as he showed me, and received a wide grin!

I waited about thirty minutes, then continued my walk down Jalan Hanoman, where I spent several hours drinking Bali coffee with cream and sugar and eating peanuts, while talking with Anik and the woman who owns the shop next door. The topics of our conversation included children (Anik has none, and is always looking for advice), sex (when best to do it to get pregnant), business opportunities (Anik is sewing clothing and trying to sell in her shop... I think I am going to have to buy some...). gaining weight (a customer had given Anik's friend some weight loss powder a year or so ago, and she uses it every once in awhile... it doesn't work. They wish they could go to the doctor like Americans and just get the fat cut off... I set them straight), and husbands and their work (Anik's husband tries to get jobs off the street to provide transport, her friend's husband works at a small hotel for a few dollars, and of course my husband is a much respected in Bali... Guru.)

2006-03-31T16:08:00.000-08:00

When it rains in this part of Bali, it is like the sky opening up. Drains crammed with used offerings, plastic bags, empty water bottles, bannana peels and foliage, quickly fill up, and water begins to run down the street in sheets. My rubber thongs slip and slosh on the slick pavement. Umbrellas come out and ponchos come on. I try to find shelter.

2006-03-31T15:52:00.000-08:00

Fear Factor...

The amount of food, and the number of Epi Pens

that I take on my trips,

are usually a measure of how anxious

I am feeling before I leave.

For this trip, I took two Epi Pens.

I used one last night.

I am not sure what caused the reaction, but after I took two Benadryl and my lips and face continued to swell, I jabbed myself for the first time in my shaking thigh. I took a quick photo of my face, a photo of the food I'd eaten and the used Epi Pen, and layed back to rest. The adrenelin did not work right away, and I thought maybe I would have to use my second pen. I put it on the bed next to me and focused on slow, steady, calm breathing... while my heart pounded to the rhythm of the clanging gamelons. It was no use seeking help... the effort I would have to exert to find someone to take me anywhere (if there was anywhere to go quickly) would be too much. I suffered a long 30 minutes before I was sure that the reaction was in remission.

The next morning, my right eye and the left side of my lip were still puffy. I will take benadryl for a few more days as my doctor usually prescribes. Why the picture? I really thought that if the Epi Pen did not work, it would be nice for my family to have something to help piece together what happened. I feel vulnerable more than ever. I am tettering on maybe coming home early... if this occurs again, I will for sure.

2006-03-31T15:38:00.000-08:00

I was taking a long, cool, somewhat refreshing shower the other night... longer than usual, when suddenly hot water came spewing out of the shower nozzle! Ahh, hot water! I did not know I had hot water, since my other showers must have been shorter. The next evening late, I turned on the water to let it heat up... 5 minutes, 6 minutes, 7 minutes, hot! I then proceeded to wash my hair and just relax. Suddenly, habis, finished... no water! I fiddled with the nob to no avail, then rinsed with cold water and went to bed. In the morning, as the roosters crowed, I heard water splashing in the shower! I had not turned the hot knob off. The hot water must get completely turned off at night.

2006-03-30T18:07:00.000-08:00

My favorite part of Bali.

Children are never out of the sight of a loving family member...

Usually being held quietly on the lap of a grandparent,

on the shoulders of a father,

the hip of a mother or sister,

or simply being played with

or watched in admiration.

2006-03-30T18:04:00.000-08:00

One of Ubud's more healthy looking dogs... napping at the parade

2006-03-30T17:55:00.000-08:00

Sekala, Niskala

Visable, invisable... everywhere in Bali there are spirits present in the physical world. Good and bad, "gods" and "demons." Humanbeings can help keep these spirits in balance, it is believed, with their offerings. The daily flower offerings are known as canang, and are always accompanied with a unique and fragrant incense. These are placed (usually by women, but always by someone in a sarong and sash) in doorways of stores, homes, bungalows, or anywhere a spirit might enter.

2006-03-30T17:50:00.000-08:00

Rain came in steady and predictably spaced downpours, sometimes with sunlight making its way through the canopy of trees and then it looked like strands of tinsel being dropped from above. The sound was like white noise with the tick, tick, ticking of thick drops plopping from the roof tops to the ground. Afterwards, drops rested like diamonds on the wide leaves, just before sliding to the tip to fall and be absorbed back into the earth.

2006-03-30T17:18:00.000-08:00

The Day of Silence........ long, powerful, reflective, quiet...
The "chattering monkey" in my head, who is fairly easy to silence at home (since its thought are usually only mundane reoccuring concerns) insisted on narrating all that I saw, heard, smelled, thought, and felt in this exotic country on this special day. I must admit, the chatter was compelling, heartfelt, insightful, and interesting to me! I let the monkey chatter until midday, when the loud high pitched sounds of the rainforest drowned out words, and thoughts took on a new dimension. The evening ended with tiny candles being lit around the pool, up the stone steps through the moss covered garden, and on the low rattan table on my porch.

2006-03-30T17:05:00.000-08:00

The excitement and anticipation was contagious!

2006-03-30T16:46:00.000-08:00

The Nyepi Processession started around 5:00 and ended late in the the evening. The huge Ogoh Ogoh, demonic effigies, were hoisted onto bamboo platforms and carried down all of the streets by hundreds of children and teenagers...all beautiful balinese boys. Drums and gongs were played loudly, and the many conflicting rhythms filled the air and penetrated into my chest. The streets were lined with tourists and families, all enjoying the parade as one would anywhere in the world. Understanding that the purpose was to scare away the evil spirits for the new year, brought added meaning to me, as I sat quietly between two Balinese families, sharing my peanuts to the delight of their children.

2006-03-29T00:45:00.000-08:00

The ant was at least the size of my thumbnail! It wandered erratically around the stone ledge until it found what it was looking for... a few grains of rice on a leaf, left as an offering at the cold jacuzzi in the garden. Here I sat, with my orange sarong floating all about me, catching my breath in short sharp gasps. I had just experienced an hour and a half Balinese massage, a sauna, and steam. Here I was left to cool down, and to enjoy a pot of green tea and honey, before my stomach massage... to aid in digestion. Ahhhh!

2006-03-29T00:37:00.000-08:00

I spent two hours this morning walking in the rice fields. (Photos of that another time) I planned it so that I would end my walk where the top of the street that my bungalow is on, Jelan Kajeng, meets the fields. There, hidden in the overgrown jungle of green is a wonderful health spa that I discovered. Here is the path leading into it. Tucked in the foliage, are beds on stilts that you can rest on after your treatment.

2006-03-29T00:29:00.000-08:00

The photo above is a typical breakfast served at Gusti's. I have chosen to have a banana jaffle (pronounce by them as jopple), which is a buttery crustless bread with bananas in the center. Below is a simple vegetable plate with peanut sauce. The total price for this (including beverage) was about $2.00.

2006-03-29T00:24:00.000-08:00

Speaking of influence... this is the stone next to the pool that I helped fill in when I was here last. I am proud to say that I did the white border and half of the black! After I left, they put my name in the stone. When I returned before the end of my stay in Bali, I saw what they had done! It makes me a little teary to think of that. Of course, each of the employees had to show it to me when I returned this trip... just incase I had forgotten it was there!

2006-03-29T00:06:00.000-08:00

This is a view from the inside of Anik's shop, where she primarily survives as a "money changer." Her husband built out the window and made some shelves and racks, and Anik has sewn some clothes to sell. She has not sold many because the fabric is very thin and cheap, but it was all she could afford. Also, the styles are not very cutting edge... The funny thing is, that if you look closely, you will see that the red button up blouse on the bottom and the scooped neck sleeveless top above, are replicas of the "Cut Loose" brand shirts I brought last year to have made by the tailor a few doors down! Poor Anik! With very few outside experiences, she must have thought that the clothes I brought to be made were popular in the United States, thus might be trend setters here! (I don't think so!) When I went to the tailor shop to visit, I saw that she too had made replicas of those two styles, as well as the double layer look I had her create for me. I actually like the fabric she used on her own creations, light and airy. You never know what kind of impact you will leave behind. I wonder if I was a good or bad influence? Too bad what they had made are too small for me!

2006-03-28T23:56:00.000-08:00

These kids are resting their heads on some rattan balls that they had been kicking around. They are dressed in little soccer uniforms, and are in a public area that is raised about 3 feet from the ground, with a marble floor and a huge thatched roof high overhead... a perfect playground in a city with predictable rains each afternoon. They were doing "headers" and playing a form of "keep it up." There were girls and boys, all about the ages of 8-12. Many older men in the traditional yellow,orange, brown sarongs and white shirts, stood watching with admiration. I wonder if they did such a thing when they were young..

2006-03-28T23:45:00.000-08:00

The next morning I got up early when Mr. Gusti was having his Bali coffee and admiring his beautiful garden. He saw me coming down the stone steps and nodded as though we'd never met. (I don't get him.) It was a bit early for the breakfast they serve as part of the $12 stay, but I wanted to bring a small gift. It was a black dry erase pen for their menu board. I know this would be a simple, yet very usable gift for them.

It was accepted with a nod, but later I saw Putu in the kitchen showing it off to the other employees. They all looked over at me and smiled. Putu gave me a thumbs up, and I knew I'd done the right thing.

This is a photo of a Gusti family member making a morning offering. You can see on her large tray are smaller little woven plates with flowers, spices, abit of rice, and of course inscense. She is sprinkling water on the offerings. She is also in the traditional/mandatory dress for going to a temple to make an offering. Even though this is just a masonary alter in the garden, she has put on a sarong, a lace top with a camisole underneath, and a ceremony sash. It is colorful yet simple. Offerings are made through out the day, usually by the women of the house.

2006-03-28T23:19:00.000-08:00

I think it is essential, for a person travelling alone, to make a freind or two who is loyal and devoted. I guess that is true anywhere you go in life, and I especially appreciate that Bruce is that person to me at home. But here in Bali, I know that I can trust and depend on Anik, her husband Nyoman, Putu (in the photo) the son of Mr. Gusti who owns the bungalows where I stay, and to whatever extent he is able, Ketut, the lower cast employee of Gusti...

I understand and enjoy the give and take of these cross cultural relationships. Yesterday, Putu and Mr. Gusti invited me to a barbeque of sorts in their family compound. Early that morning I'd listened to the clatter of utensils and the excited hushed chatter of women in the kitchen. They were preparing food for this family gathering before Nyepi. I couldn't believe they invited me! Mr. Gusti is usually so pensive and aloof, but obviously he respected me to invite me into this rather intimate gathering!

I was the only female eating, and not so sure what to do... but with gestures and smiles, I came to understand that it would be like our own family buffet style eating! Above you see a relative of Gusti's bringing back a basket of food which she brought as an offering to the family temple and then spread out as part of the food at the buffet. I was handed a small rattan plate with a wedge of coconut leaf on it. I served myself a generous portion of sticky rice (I was thinking that if the other unrecognizable food was not palatible to me, at least I'd be eating and looking like I enjoyed it!). Next there was a mixture I'd eaten before in the market... some sort of finely ground meat with green spices. The rest of the food I just took a chance on, and put a small helping around the glob of rice. This is what I had: cubes of duck wrapped in a leaf (greasy but good), a finely chopped pig mixed with a glutenous substance (tasted good, like sausage), torn up leaves, that looked like bay leaves, that were coarse and bitter. These were mixed with red spices. It was hot and horrible, and I resisted the urge to spew it out of my mouth. I kept it in, chewing and chewing, and the little pieces of leaves got stronger and stronger in my mouth. finally I resorted to the old trick from my childhood- cough quietly into a napkin!

All the food was eaten with the right hand, and we ate and watched a duck which was skewered from bill to butt and tied to a bamboo skewer, being cooked over a little habatchi style stove. It was smokey and smelled delicious. The little chips that burned were from the shell of the coconut. The women waited on the porch and at first I felt uncomfortable, but when I'd try to make eye contact with them, they'd smile and not. I knew it was okay, and that it was quite an honor. I wasn't really sure when it was officially over, and when I could go... so I started to play with the little children. That was perfect!

2006-03-28T05:07:00.000-08:00

Anik's father's family pose for a picture!

I spent most of the day walking around, looking in shops, watching children playing, talking with people, and finally, visiting my friend Anik at the shop where she works. We borrowed a
motor bike from her friend and we rode about 15 minutes to where her parents live. This is a photo of her with her mother. It is the tradition that a woman lives in the same house as her husband and his family. Because of this, Anik rarely gets to see her parents. I suggested that we just go and that I would take pictures so she would have some to remind her of them. I had brought some little plexiglass frames, and I will print them to give to her. When I was taking the picture, all of her cousins and their wives and children began coming out into the courtyard and started posing in such a way that I knew they wanted me to take a picture of them too, but they were too shy to ask! I did so, and will make a little album for them. I ended my day with a massage, tea and fruit.

2006-03-28T04:35:00.000-08:00

There is much excitement in Ubud today. Tomorrow is the eve of the Hindu New Years, and there will be a torchlit procession in the street with great huge figures. I have been watching the goulish creatures being made. This is a picture of one. It is made of foam rubber that has been carved and hand painted! Last night as I was walking home, there were some flashing red lights and soft music coming from the end of the road where my place is. I walked towards the lights until I could see that they were lighting a blue figure. It was like a happy leaping dragon without a tail! The figures are created by various youth groups, schools, and clubs. There is a contest to see who can make the funniest, ugliest, most frightening creature. The purpose of all of this, as I understand it, is to rid the town of any evil spirits. The following day will be a day of silence. No one in the streets. It is a day of meditation and prayer. It is also a day of fasting. All work is stopped, including the airport and service at most hotels. Interesting!

2006-03-27T01:53:00.000-08:00

After a long 13 hour flight from San Francisco to Taipei... a two hour wait, and a short 5 hour flight on one of China Airline's new planes, with individual screens and movies for each passenger, I arrived in Denpasar, Bali! I shed my leggings, hoodie, and socks, and was prepared when the humidity in the airport hit! Some of the passageways are open to outside courtyards, with fountains and stone carvings, all covered with moss and vines. I got in line right away, and going through customs was a breeze. I picked up my bag and headed toward the glass doors leading to the outside. I scanned the eager dark faces of people waiting for passengers, until I found the smile I was looking for. My Balinese friend, Anik, and her husband Nyoman, were there as planned. After a long hard girl hug from Anik, and a shy tight hand shake from Nyoman, we stood looking and smiling and laughing at each other. It had been so long, and we'd anticipated this moment for months. Now it was real and felt as if there had been no time at all between visits.
The 45 minute drive from the busy city of Denpasar to the mountain town of Ubud was hot, muggy, and fast. The three of us talked and laughed and shared what was new in our lives, as Nyoman navigated the packed roads with ease. We shared our lane flanked by motorbikes, chickens, women walking with baskets, men carrying long strands of palm leaves, and my eyes were stinging the entire way. Anik offered me warm water and I drank it gratefully. My legs stuck to the seat and my hair blew in the warm breeze from the open windows.
When we arrived at Gusti's Garden Bungalows, a short dark man with a knowing grin greeted us! Ketut had heard I was coming, and was there waiting to carry my bags! Amazing! He is a man we befriended on our first trip, and he remembers me every time. He apologized over and over that someone was in "my bungalow!" He led me to another room that was colorful and bright, overlooking the pool and the garden. I could tell at once it would be warmer than my preferred room. He tried to turn on the overhead fan, and it chunked around in a lame manner, barely cutting the thick air. He smiled apologetically... bargaining power I thought!
I had no sooner washed my face and sat on the bed when the sky broke open with rain. I just sat and watched the huge drops splash off the gigantic green leaves by my porch and come down in sheets from the roof. I decided to forget a shower, and just went outside and stood in the rain and let it wash the sticky sweat from my body. I went in and dried off with a sarong that I had tossed in at the last minute... good thing, because the room had no towels.
I will walk around the town tonight, and just get reaquainted with the streets. In two days is an important holiday and there is evidence of preparation everywhere. More on that later!

2006-03-25T18:14:00.000-08:00

Hello, World!